Friday, September 16, 2011

FALL STYLE TRANSITION: THE MOTHER OF REINVENTION


                                                                        Diana Vreeland

                                                                         Diana Vreeland





The September issues of our favorite fashion sites and magazines have given us countless ways to reinvent ourselves this season. The Editors reponsible for dictating what to wear and what age to wear it have all followed in the fabulous footsteps of Diana Vreeland: the originator of today's concept of a Fashion Editor. 

This Fall will be marked by the release of the documentary The Eye Has To Travel by Lisa Immordino Vreeland. The book of the same title is also making its debut. Diana Vreeland  (D.V. as she was affectionately known) was responsible for the "Why Don't You" feature in Harper's Bazaar where she was Editor-in-Chief before spending the second half of her career as Editor-in-Chief at Vogue. D.V. left an indelible mark on The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum by shaping it into the institution it is today; styling the early exhibits at The Costume Institute and influencing the shape of exhibits to come.

Reinvention for D.V. meant playing up her strengths. She grew up aware that she didn't fit the standard for beauty. Having a beautiful mother who frequently reminded her of her lack of outward beauty propelled D.V. to focus on making the most of her  looks through the creation of her unique style.  She was a rebel. Although far from a classic beauty, she created a look which was alluring: slicked back hair, monochromatic clothes (always black), large scale ethnic jewelry, and red lips. Then there was the personality. In her case, joie de vivre, humor and an impeccable eye for beauty. 


This Fall I hear D.V. saying "why don't you..."reinvent. Assess what is working and what isn't. Play up and build on strength.

"Never fear being vulgar, just boring"
                                         -D.V.



Sunday, September 11, 2011

JACQUELINE KENNEDY ONASSIS: THE SHOW MUST GO ON

            JACKIE 
Whenever women are asked who their style icons are, Jackie is always at the top of the list. Most of the photos of her throughout the years convey her sense of what looked good on her, her commitment to looking her best, and her understanding of how to play to her strengths (toned arms and legs from a lifetime of riding and self discipline).  She set the standard for elegance, refined chic and how to wear major large framed sunglasses. Jackie also, even under the worst of circumstances, always looked pulled together.

When I was in my late twenties I sadly had a full-term pregnancy after which the baby only lived for two days. Yes, this was one of the worst possible and almost unimaginable situations for any woman to go through; and, yes, it was one of those defining moments where I could have sunk into the depths and wallowed. My daughter was three and needed me. I was surrounded by the love and comfort of friends, family and my husband.

One of the most memorable moments in the days following this epic loss was when my best friend arrived at my house carrying six black dresses edited from several of our friends’ closets. "Let's face it," she said, "if there is going to be a funeral, you will have to choose a black dress, and you might as well have options." I will never forget the dress I chose to wear for that day. The black, sleeveless trapeze dress that hid my post-pregnancy stomach and temporarily allowed me to feel free of the weight I was carrying in my heart–and everywhere else.

My father, who is seldom at a loss for words and masterful at looking at the bright side of things, commented, "Jackie and you have something in common." (I border on obsessive with an insatiable appetite for Kennedy family history and Jackie.) Jackie had lost a son in between Caroline and John Jr.  I sought refuge in reading about Jackie at the time of the death of her baby as she embodied strength and set the bar high in her ability to transverse the roughest of waters while in the public eye (and on Ari Onasis' yacht).  She smoked like a chimney and drank plenty (in private, never in public) but whatever she needed to do to get her through seemed to work.

I was so fortunate to have my son a little more than a year after. While pregnant with him, I went back to school (at night) to complete the B.A. degree that had eluded me when I opted for a glamorous job on Seventh Avenue and a shared apartment with my boyfriend (eventually husband) in NYC. The fortitude I found which supported my decision to finish college in the wake of tragedy and loss was fostered by the role model which Jackie served while she reinvented herself as an Editor at Doubleday. Jackie was an icon for reinvention and personal style: a winning combination.

Jackie's status as style icon is tied into her consistent ability to evolve and her will to go on and look her best when many would curl up in the fetal position.  She had the taste and budget to indulge in luxury few can equal.  Even multi-millionaire Joseph Kennedy (Jack Kennedy's father who paid for Jackie's wardrobe during the White House years), could not believe her monthly bills. Her look post First Lady was all about masterful accessorizing and attention to the details: Cartier Tank watch, The signature Gucci Jackie Baglarge framed sunglasses and Hermes scarves.  Each of the elements that made up Jackie's look is equally modern now. Classic is adaptable and timeless–and so is her style.

As we stand united in loss today I feel like paying homage to all women who have shared the pain of having to go on in the wake of loss for the sake of our kids and ourselves only to find greater and enduring strength in the struggle.



Even though people may be well known, they hold in their hearts the emotions of a simple person for the moments that are the most important of those we know on earth: birth, marriage and death.   -Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
                     

Saturday, September 10, 2011

STYLE AND SUBSTANCE: TAKING IT TO THE STREETS

Elle Macpherson
Robin Wright-Penn
Lauren Hutton
Diane Von Furstenberg

I have always been an observer. Growing up in New York City is kind of like an ongoing runway show. I grew up addicted to the ritual of the subtle and sometimes not-so-subtle check-out: scrutinizing someone from head to toe, analyzing each element of an outfit by breaking down their accessories, hair, make-up and then conjuring up who the person might be, where they might be going and what might lie behind their outward appearance. This is still my obsession. The only difference between then and now is who I focus my attention on and why. I have decided to take to the streets again, with a renewed purpose: to seek out and uncover those with style NOT in their twenties and thirties, but in their forties, fifties, sixties, seventies... blah, blah, blah. I am DONE focusing on the girls and boys.

I grew up in Manhattan in the 70s and 80s. During my formative years, Lauren Hutton was the face of the fragrance Charlie by Revlon. She was sexy and feminine. Dressed in a power suit and a gap-tooth smile.  Around the same time, Diane Von Furstenburg, a single mother and trailblazer, created a uniform for the modern woman in the form of a wrap dress that I wore with my wedge espadrilles on my first day of boarding school in 1976. Elle Macpherson was my girl crush. Australian, athletic and ridiculously gorgeous in the most natural way.

Fast forward: DVF is the President of the CFDA and Lauren Hutton has a hugely successful make-up line. I threw in a photo of Robin Wright-Penn because she is one of the most natural beauties and a late forty-something whose photo I felt like including. Elle Macpherson is the CEO of a multi-million dollar company. These women both have style and substance (and great bone structure). Speaking of substance, I wrote a post for Betty Confidential a while back that will give you a little more insight into my own way of tackling aging.

So that's it. If you want a dose of good news (that the older we get the more we have to bring to the perverbial style party), you will want to tune in, sign up and check out what's happening on the street and beyond... and it ain't just about the clothes!